A museum guide stands in front of Arearea and points. The group behind her looks where she directs them. This is how most people encounter Gauguin — mediated, framed, explained. The painting on the wall at the Musée d’Orsay is one of the most reproduced images in the Western canon: two Tahitian women seated in a lush landscape, a red dog in the foreground, the color saturated to a pitch that has no equivalent in European painting before it.

The Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna holds one of the strongest concentrations of Flemish and Netherlandish painting outside the Low Countries themselves, and the Aertsen panels in its collection are among the least-celebrated works in a building that also contains Bruegel’s Tower of Babel and Vermeer’s Art of Painting. That context matters. Hung among dynastic portraits and Italian altarpieces, the market scenes register their strangeness more clearly than they would in a museum organized around genre painting as a category.

The Rijksmuseum Research Library was not designed to be convenient. It was designed to be overwhelming. Four floors of floor-to-ceiling shelving rising on all sides of a central atrium, tens of thousands of volumes visible at once, the ironwork galleries and spiral staircases carrying the eye upward and outward until the scale of accumulated knowledge becomes the first and most insistent thing the room communicates. Two researchers sit at a lit table on the ground floor, reduced to near-insignificance by the architecture around them.

The illuminated manuscript is easy to misread as luxury. The floral borders, the painted miniatures, the red rubrication that punctuates columns of dense black script — these look, to modern eyes, like ornament. Like excess. The assumption is that the decoration exists to display wealth, and that the text is the real content while the image is the frame around it. Both assumptions are wrong. The border was not decoration in the sense of being separable from the content.