A museum guide stands in front of Arearea and points. The group behind her looks where she directs them. This is how most people encounter Gauguin — mediated, framed, explained. The painting on the wall at the Musée d’Orsay is one of the most reproduced images in the Western canon: two Tahitian women seated in a lush landscape, a red dog in the foreground, the color saturated to a pitch that has no equivalent in European painting before it.